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On a day when it was cold enough to freeze your jalapenos right off, a spicy lunch at Taco Azteca sounded like a great idea. Located in the same corner of Washington Square Mall formerly occupied by The Grille, you’ll find tacos, burritos and a host of other zesty treats to warm up your winter weary self.

We checked out the large overhead menu at the front counter, and something seemed familiar. The choices were straightforward, the descriptions blessedly simple. Regulars wandered in, ordered and were served even before we’d figured out our choices. We heard Spanish drifting out of the beautifully tiled kitchen, along with a lot of laughter and teasing, and even a bit of song.

I was immediately struck by the beautiful new booths along the window side of the restaurant. The management has figured out a host of small things that make a huge difference: labels at the self-serve hot sauce station, hot plates for hot food, generous portions for reasonable prices, and guacamole that is so brilliantly fresh and intensely flavorful that I suggest you order at least two side portions to see you through a meal. I also love the atmosphere and decor here. Warm and colorful, with interesting bits of art on the walls, the whole room has a relaxed but classy feeling.

Oh, and then there’s the food. I started with a crisp chicken taco for just $2.75. Soft tortillas are also available, but I have to admit the crisp version here is just perfect, with absolutely no oily or greasy taste or feel. (You’ll notice as soon as you enter the restaurant that it doesn’t have a lingering odor of fried food — it just smells spicy, warm and delicious.) The taco shell was more than half filled with moist, well-seasoned chicken, and topped with tiny diced tomatoes, and topped with such an abundance of lettuce and so much tangy cheddar cheese that even I, cheesehead girl of the north, was beyond content. A taco isn’t exactly world-class cuisine, but you should know that the kitchen took the time to make this most simple of foods look elegant when it was plated for service — truly a delight for the eyes even before the first taste. That told me a lot about the care that goes into the food here, and it was true for the entire meal.

The combination plate of two beef enchiladas ($6.95) turned out to be a platter full of great food that nearly made a lunch and a half. The deliciously tender ground beef had been cooked slowly and spiced very well by someone who knows there’s more to Mexican food than just chili powder. The Spanish rice was fluffy and abundant, and had exactly the right balance of peppers and tomatoes. I loved the silken refried beans that defined the phrase “melt in your mouth.” They are worthy of their own section on the menu.

We also tried a chicken quesadilla ($5.95) which is listed as an appetizer, but could easily feed two people for lunch. Plate-sized tortillas were crisped to golden-brown perfection and stuffed with the same tasty chicken as the taco, and smothered yellow and white cheeses. Cut in four pieces and served on a piping-hot plate, we nibbled on this all through lunch and were happy that it stayed hot the whole time.

Side orders of extra cheese and guacamole and couple of soft drinks rounded out the lunch, but we probably could have skipped the cheese, since each plate came loaded with more than enough. The hot sauces at the self-serve station are all delicious, and I have only rave reviews for the best pico de gallo in town. I have no idea what secret ingredients Taco Azteca puts in their pico, but whatever it is, they need to keep up the good work.

We had been told that the service was great and I am happy to confirm that it is. Even though customers are issued an order number, meals are magically delivered to the table in record time. Watchful eyes notice as soon as customers finish, and plates are cleared quickly and quietly. Every single person serving, cooking or clearing tables greeted guests warmly, often in Spanish, always with a genuine smile.

You’ll like that this menu isn’t bogged down by overly complicated or expensive dishes that slow down service — a smart move for a place that looks like it’s already got a huge and devoted lunch crowd. Next time I can’t wait to try the Shrimp Salsa Salad ($7.95) and the Horchata ($2) the Mexican drink made with almonds, rice, cinnamon, sugar and lime, or perhaps a genuine Mexican juice drink (Jumex for $1.95) too. For the truly ravenous, the listing for the Azteca Burrito ($13.95) made us smile: Alaska’s Biggest Burrito — Comes with everything — “For Good Eaters ONLY.”

We saw a lot of good eaters enjoying fresh, hot, well prepared and very well priced food at Taco Azeteca, and I’m betting you’ll soon be a good eater here also.